Dean in UK
From Wellington Cathedral of St Paul
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Travels continued...
July 8 – Sydney Airport
The three and a half hour flight out of Wellington seemed particularly short after the long flights of recent days. We have a two hour stop-over en route to Brisbane (using Frequent Flyer points hence the long route) and then a two hour drive to Toowoomba tonight. But back to Hong Kong first.
Saturday night saw us joining friends for dinner and catching up on news of families and cathedrals. Sunday morning we made our way down the hill for no more than 150 metres, arriving in the Cathedral already soaked with the heat and humidity. St John’s Cathedral was one of the first western style buildings erected in Hong Kong in the 1840s – the garrison church. The seats are wood and rattan, and big fans circulate throughout the building moving the moisture laden air, and, of course, making for quite a background noise.
Christine and I were welcomed by any number of people – and pleased that most of the names came back quite quickly (I served at St John’s as a Chaplain 1998 – 2001). The sung Eucharist is not dissimilar to ours – a robed choir accompanied by Allen digital organ (too humid for pipes) – Rizza Mass setting and some pieces from “The Armed Man”. The big difference is that the Cathedral is packed – with people standing in the doorways (and this in mid summer when many of the expats go away). Being an English-speaking congregation a lot of Roman Catholic women who work in HK as domestic workers come to the Anglican services (St Joseph’s Catholic church up the road has masses on the hour every hour throughout the day). You will find my sermon on the Sermons page of this website.
Time for a shower and rest before we caught the Airport Express and Christine took her leave to return to Wellington briefly – chiefly to pick up medication for the next few months.
I spent the night visiting friends – one a pilot with Cathay, the other a helicopter pilot. Monday morning I set off early to do the two hour walk from Discovery Bay to Mui Wo (Silvermine Bay). The pathway takes one around a bay through several traditional Chinese villages, then a steep climb to a Trappist Monastery (passing the Stations of the Cross as one climbs from the sea). The Monastery is a haven of peace in the busyness of Hong Kong and I spent a few quiet minutes in the Chapel, giving thanks for safe travel, and praying for the many people we have had the privilege of knowing in our travels and work in three different countries. More climbing and I arrived at the pagoda at the top of the hill (having plucked a twig to use as a whisk and thus avoid getting tangled in spider webs) – sopping wet from sweat. Two bottles of water, a couple of muesli bars, and my shirt blowing in the wind for 20 minutes, and I set off down the other side towards the beach. A glorious swim rewarded my efforts. Then a ferry ride back to Central and my hotel and the evening with Stephen (just flown in from Spain) and friends.
Ten years ago I was instrumental in getting a group of Christian business people going. The group meets once a month over a catered lunch and have a guest speaker. What a privilege to speak again and see this gathering still going strong. Known as “Christians in Central” they were way ahead of the “Public Theology” thrust that has just arrived in New Zealand. You can read my address by following the link to Christians in Central
Then it was time for Stephen and me to head for the airport and a restless and largely sleepless night flying back to NZ!! So ends part I of my sabbatical period – a fantastic time away with wonderful people and some extra-ordinary places.
Tonight we expect to be met by Bishop Rob Nolan (Assistant Bishop of Brisbane responsible for the western part of the diocese). After a few days with him we will drive to Mitchell, 600 kms west of Brisbane on the edge of the Darling Downs. There Christine and I will be based for the next two months, doing services on Sundays, and writing up a thesis on Benedictine Spirituality and Deans in NZ! It will be a time of quietness (I hope) and concentrated work. The Bishop has warned me not to spend too long each day in the hot springs – ‘there are a lot of wrinkly people in Mitchell’!
For those who are interested I will open a new section and add the occasional missive – but don’t expect daily reports (the population of Mitchell is only 1002).
July 3rd Hong Kong
Well – we’re here! Christine and I flew into Hong Kong late this morning (2 July) and are now resting in the Helena May Club where we’ll be staying for a few nights. It’s just up Garden Road from St John’s Cathedral – ideally placed.
Our journey from York took us cross-country by train to Manchester Picadilly station. There we would be met by Chich, a close friend from theological college days. I was a little nervous about staying with Chich and Gill – Chich went blind very suddenly last year, and I was fearful of the imposition. Seeing him waiting under the information sign, dark glasses, white hair and white stick – no change really. We took a cab to the rectory. There followed two days of almost non-stop conversation as the years dropped away and people were fitted into the 2010 jigsaw puzzle.
I was quite stunned at just how many of my contemporaries from theological college days are now in England; and equally saddened to hear that many share similar stories of disillusionment with the double standards that too easily come in on the coattails of liberation. Last year, while in Cape Town, we were told how people are granted a new house for themselves to live in, then promptly build a shack at the back, move in to the shack themselves and let out the house! The strain on infra-structure such as water and sewage is enormous (not for nothing am I the son of a civil municipal engineer). The gravy train and the sense of entitlement that goes with it (often by those so intimately involved in the ‘struggle’) seems a long way from the model of servant leadership espoused by our Lord.
England is looking beautiful at the moment, and we enjoyed a couple lovely walks, one suburban the other country. The meadows are being mown and the hay bales piled up. That also means that hay-fever season is rampant. I was left flattened by the sneezing and itchy eyes, and then had a severe headache reaction to medication. (A gentle massage at Manchester airport helped some.) Non-drowsy medication also keeps me awake at night – good for getting sermons done!
A less rushed stopover at Frankfort saw us board an aging 747 for the overnight flight to Hong Kong, accompanied by the familiar noisy sounds of excited Cantonese speakers returning home. Hong Kong enveloped us in its blanket of warmth and humidity as we stepped off the plane and stood waiting for the A11 bus – by far the best way to get in from the airport (costs HK$40 and you get a fantastic view of the high rise buildings, amazing bridge and road structures and the largest container port in the world). Being crystal clear (no pollution in sight) we decided to go up to the Peak almost immediately – stunning views, but very inflated prices.
This morning (3 July) a No 6 bus to Stanley Market to make our contribution to the well-being of Hong Kong’s economy – picking out new buildings, and familiar land-marks, including various favourite swimming beaches en route. Then forced our way into an overcrowded eating spot frequented by locals for a beautiful freshly cooked meal.
June 29th – Tuesday in York
A quiet morning in York and time to catch our breath before moving on to Manchester for the final two days in England.
Last Friday, our last day in London, saw us having a private tour of Westminster Abbey followed by lunch in Church House. By now information overload was a serious problem, but one absorbs what is possible. Among the interesting conversations was that sparked by a question from Prem (Dean of Chennai) about the apparent demise of CMS and USPG – for nearly two centuries the big Anglican missionary societies. As dioceses make their own companion relationships, such as we have with Kagera, so money is funneled there rather than the longer established mission partnerships. Makes me wonder about the long term sustainability of Good Shepherd Secondary School in Kagera when those presently interested and committed move on! A mad dash by taxi through London traffic to catch our train from Kings Cross to Ely and our next stage of the journey.
Ely
Mike and Helen are friends from our Hong Kong days – Mike now rector of a group of five village churches, and Helen a lay reader. Breakfast was a leisurely affair in the garden – listening to the sounds of ponies next door, and watching the large wood pigeons cavorting in the trees (very like our kereru). Ely Cathedral was a gentle oasis after the hurly burly of London – and clearly doing some really interesting things. I took heaps of photos of their notice boards; and the prayer net – a fishing net covered in knotted pieces of wool – not dissimilar to our prayer tapestry. Pleased to see the RAF memorial window –on which ours is modeled, complete with detail of Ely Cathedral in bottom corner. On the train again en route to Lichfield.
Lichfield
Canon Tony and Anne met us at the station and wrapped us in love, care and people for the next two days. We went straight to the School at the Cathedral to see the Chapel with its Selwyn memorabilia – see photos. A peaceful night on a farm under a full moon. Evensong at 3.30pm (complete with prayers for England’s soccer team – clearly not effective) and then a 45 minute walk around the Cathedral with the Dean. Sadly Selwyn’s tomb is under cover as the whole Lady Chapel area is under scaffolding during restoration work. Did however photograph a plaque to Mrs Selwyn, and another to Bishop Woods (another Wellington connection). Most pleasing for me was to view and handle the cope and mitre of Bishop Edward Norman – beautifully kept and used from time to time.
Also climbed up into the Library to see the extra-ordinary collection of ancient manuscripts, early English bibles and prayer books – and a copy of Chaucer. Very special.
Sunday evening we had dinner with David and Hazel, Lichfield contacts for the Wellington link – and other people charged with overseas links. Some useful conversations and ideas as to how we might build on these links, including the possibility of designing a prayer tapestry for mutual use. DOM Philip Scriven looking forward to his time in Wellington Cathedral in August.
Tony and Anne send love and greetings to Wellington Cathedral people – including Richard and Merlene, Elizabeth and Crispin, Richard and Joanna.
Two nights in Lichfield of course is far too short a time, but the train moved us on to York and a night with friends from Oamaru days. Steve was our GP in the south, is now ordained but presently with a medical team in Haiti. Good to see that their children have grown as much as ours have!
I am very conscious that I need to find some head space to prepare a sermon for Sunday 4th July in Hong Kong and then a talk next Tuesday to Christians who work in Central HK.
June 25th: Friday
Early morning and the dawn of our last day in London – overcast and quiet at present. Thursday saw us having a later much-needed start and making our way to Liverpool Station and up to the 12th floor for a seminar on Charity Investment. Here we were introduced to the intricacies of futures trading, hedge funds, derivatives and the principals of ethical investing. Some very interesting papers which I hope to feed in to our ‘Faith in the City’ group and perhaps the Social Justice Commissioner. The material will, I hope, be available in e-form. Over the years our host has talked at some length about how St Mary’s seeks to engage with the financial world of the City of London. Today we were treated to some of this engagement. Those interested may like to go to www.arcubus.org.uk to find out more about micro-financing projects run by the church in London.
Christine took the morning off and then enjoyed an hour or so sitting on a bench in Hyde Park with George and Margaret Fergusson (recently returned from NZ). Later she and I went off to see the refurbished St Martin-in-the-Fields and the crowds of people in Trafalgar Square. It was lovely to sit quietly for a few minutes listening to the strings rehearse for a concert, and then wander round the extra-ordinary developments downstairs – in a crypt under much of the Square. We have finally discovered buses and find them much more pleasant than the underground.
At 6.05pm we were back in St Mary-le-bow for their weekly Eucharist – tonight Choral with professional choir of four people, so much incense there was a definite shekina-like haze, and the blessing of the new pipe organ. The irony of fine Anglo-Catholic worship in a church that once boasted as its vicar the man responsible for master-minding the worst of the destruction of images during the Reformation era was not lost on us!
Dinner followed – a much less formal event than last night with much banter interspersed with serious conversation on a range of issues – including the experiences of conscription for two of us (me in South Africa, Jim in the US in the Vietnam era). Those of us from outside the UK continue to give thanks for the ‘freedom’ we have to get on with living the Gospel, without the strictures of being the established church. As always it is of real interest to hear and talk about the similarities and differences in our respective churches and countries – enriched this year by the presence of Prem from Madras.
Today we gather at St Mary’s for the last time, then have a short visit to Westminster Abbey before saying goodbye till next year – in Wellington, NZ.
The next stage of our journey takes us to Ely and on to Lichfield Cathedral for the weekend.
June 24 – London
A few days since I had the chance to write – such is the hustle and bustle of living in the big smoke!
We gathered on Monday for Evening Prayer in the crypt Chapel of St Mary-le-Bow, literally in the shadow of St Paul’s Cathedral, on Cheapside. Who are we? Jim from Trinity Wall St, NY; Doug from Toronto Cathedral; Andrew from Hong Kong Cathedral; Prem from the Cathedral in Chennai (Madras); Rowan from Cape Town Cathedral; Christine and myself; and our host George, rector of Mary-le-Bow. Drinks and dinner followed – a chance to meet people of the parish, staff, vestry etc.
Tuesday 22nd
We are staying in the Saville Club, close to Bond St Underground – a ‘gentleman’s club’ – where jackets are obligatory at all times. One large table is set aside for those who wish to ‘breakfast in silence’ – we are not sitting there.
Tuesday morning stated with a tour of St Mary’s, and some of its history; then too little time to tell our own stories before being whisked off to meet the Bishop of London; back to listen to a debate on the current political situation (on budget day) between an eminent historian and a former deputy governor of the Bank of England. Interesting, but I don’t have enough knowledge to really follow. One of the things about this gathering is the opportunity to pick up new and different ideas – and to be affirmed in some of the things we do. Our “Faith in the City” Group speaks directly into this sort of debating opportunity – bringing faith perspectives into the working life of people. (Judy Wigglesworth will be interested to know that Prof Peter Hennessy has written a paper on ‘her’ Cabinet manual.)
Lunch at 2.00pm was followed by a visit to the Mercers’ Company. In Mediaeval times Guilds developed focused on different trades. Here is the real power in London – as the merchants got on with making money leaving the lords etc to waste it. The Mercers were purveyers in silk and fine fabric. The Guilds now seem to be engaged largely in charitable works. Included in the beautiful chapel is an incredible 16th century carving of the crucified Christ, apparently buried when Cromwell began his destruction of churches. That evening we went to see the play “Warhorse” – the story of horses that fought in the first World War – played by puppeteers in a most life-like, and horse-like, way. Very good. Dinner followed so we got back to the club about midnight – exhausted.
Wednesday 23rd
Bleary eyes gathered at 8.30 this morning as we made our way to the Tower of London to be met by the Chaplain. Having a personal guide through a place like the Tower has distinct advantages: not only can he get you into places others can’t, he jumps queues and knows all the staff. A moving few moments in the cell which held Sir Thomas Moore for a year; and, of course, many stories of treachery and betrayal. We did the tourist thing and stood on the walkalator to glimpse the crown jewels, and photographed the ravens.
Next stop – St Ethelburga’s Centre for Reconciliation and Peace. This ancient church was bombed by the IRA in 1993, causing enormous disruption to the financial district of London. The Church, which is really quite small, has been rebuilt and, in the style of Coventry Cathedral in the 1960s, is dedicated to promoting peace and reconciliation. Among the things that caught my eye: a tablet to the Victorian priest who made the first scholarly translation of the Qur’an, and the concept of providing not neutral, but mutual space for people of different beliefs to meet in. A wealthy Saudi businessman provided a tent of meeting – a place of surprise to visitors.
Another Guild Hall, this time that of the Merchants, for lunch. I struggled to get my head around the concept of patronage in the Church of England as the Master and Clerk of the Merchants hosted us to a lunch of salmon with Villa Maria Chardonnay 1995!! In the library are rare copies of the fist printed English bibles and prayer books – and stunning collections of silverware. Each of these Guilds has services from time to time, and each has a chaplain.
Evensong at St Paul’s Cathedral this evening, sung by the Lay Clerkes – Tye Short service. The Dean and some of the Canons gave us a brief history of the Cathedral before entertaining us to dinner in the Chapter House – a meal punctuated by loud crowd noises and the ubiquitous sounds of the vuvusela. Later we watched a little of the marathon singles match at Wimbledon. How will the All Whites do tomorrow?
June 20th Sunday
It’s a beautiful sunny morning on Sunday 20th June. We are staying in the picturesque village of Bratton Fleming in North Devon where Christine’s uncle and wife live. Spending three nights here has been a welcome change from a different bed every night, a chance to do some washing and catch up on sleep.
Last Wednesday saw the final farewells to the Tour Group following a bus trip to Athens airport and all aboard for Frankfurt. An hour’s delay meant a frantic dash through the maze of departure lounges, shops and tunnels of the airport to find our plane still waiting – just. An easy hour’s flying took us across the Channel and into that ever diminishing spiral of circling that all travelers to Heathrow will know. It was a relief to see Doug and Barbara on the plane with us; but where were John and Mary? Presumably, like one of our suitcases, on the following plane. Getting pounds from the Travelex ATM proved impossible so I tried the AMEX machine – bingo!
Mick Hathaway was waiting for us at the gate and within no time we were on the M5 heading towards Reading and the home of Mick and Judi Hattaway. (Judi spent some weeks at Wellington Cathedral last May.) A pleasant evening followed with much talk about her ordination to the diaconate on 3 July, and discovering mutual friends and acquaintances (particularly the diocese of Kimberley and Kuruman in South Africa where the bishop is one of my college friends, whom we saw last year on our visit there). Christine had a nasty melt-down, perhaps a reaction to the stress of catching the plane – but fortunately woke up next morning, tired but fine.
We have decided to travel mostly by train in the UK – all pre-booked from NZ. Our first trip: Reading to Bristol for an all too brief lunch stop with Roy and Margaret Barker. As Dean of Grahamstown Roy taught me much of what I know about cathedral life and preaching, and is, to my mind, a model of humility and Christian service. Inevitably my mind turned to some of our experiences in Grahamstown in the mid ‘80’s, when the Apartheid government was at it most desperate. The brave Black Sash ladies who kept solitary vigil; the daily tolling of the bell at midday for children in detention; being photographed by the SB while walking down the high street; the toy-toying of student protests, and the horror of seeing a van set alight on the hill opposite us. But also happy memories of our first two children being born, and wandering the hills around us with back-pack carried children.
Another hour on the train and an hour by car to North Devon – what an attractive part of England. Later that night good friends from Welkom and Grahamstown days popped round – how the decades fall away with good friends. David and Lee ‘rescued’ a lost and lonely newly ordained curate in the Free State Goldfields. A post-war development Welkom (Welcome in English) was anything but! Absolutely flat, laid out around a series of very large circles; all the churches in one street, the banks on another. I remember having to run over the railway bridges to find a bit of uphill running. It was here I made the fatal mistake of telling a tiny ‘coloured’ congregation that my favourite hymn was Cwm Rhondda. We sang it every Sunday for the next two years – badly – in a school classroom where we met for Eucharist each week. Some years later, when my BC years were over, Lee became god-mother to Gillian.
Friday morning dawned bright and clear and we set off for Lee Abbey and a look around this evangelical retreat house. Beautifully situated on the coastal cliffs, it is a rabbit-warren of a place. First person to welcome us was ‘Billy’ Gerritsen from Palmerston North (where her father is Archdeacon for Ministry). A pub lunch and we were ready for sleep and a quiet moment watching some of the football. NZ still hanging in there after two matches.
London 21 June Yesterday we discovered that while the English may be known for their patience in queues they are not very good at giving you the seat you had booked on the train! But we got to Paddington to be met by Ruth and Mike, long-ago friends from our St Mary’s Cathedral, Johannesburg days. Mike has travelled the world with the BBC, and Ruth spends much of her time promoting hospice in Kenya. It was good to catch up with them and their family, and spend time with Megan’s god-parents again. Inevitably conversation included the excitement of Nelson Mandela’s release in 1990; and the difficult days of uncertainty that followed before we left South Africa for NZ in 1991.
A half hour’s drive this morning from Chelsea, past Hyde Park, took us to the Saville Club – home for the next few days. Loud laughter proved to be coming from the Revd George Bush of St Mary-le-Bow, our host for this week – but I was promptly sent back upstairs to put on jacket and tie in order to lunch at the club! So we are beginning to gather from Wellington, New York, Toronto, London, Cape Town, Hong Kong – and someone new to the group who I am yet to meet.
Wimbledon opens today – so a little tennis will no doubt relieve the football diet. Watch this space as I write more in the days to come.
Frank
